top of page


    This script is about the multipocket as a print. We are not talking about just randomly placed pockets to create a cargo effect, that has been done far too many times... So many times that it has become commonplace. This article is really about the "3D printed", if you can call it that, which are formed by a multitude of pockets. All of these pockets together create intrigue and add multi-functionality to the garment in question. 

It's a technique, if you can call it that, that was heavily seen in Japan in the early years and that has been taken up by several very different types of designers; some of them are a logical continuation

like Raf Simons and others less so like Viktor&Rolf.


    The oldest and most classical form of that technique has been seen on Jean-Paul Gaultier's 1990 collection.  The interpretation of it here is very different than the other ones that are, like mentioned, mostly Japanese. In that case, the vest has many pockets. Making it more practical but still keeping that French classic vibe. 

jpg homme 1990.jpeg

  Issey Miyake came up with that so infamous bomber jacket in a/w 1996. So infamous that you can find ASMR unboxing video of it on Youtube. 

He took as reference a western military issue MA-1 bomber jacket. He changed the silhouette of it and added modular pockets. This bomber jacket could be the OG cargo bomber. 

  In 1998, General Research’s founder Setsumasa Kobayashi came up with his "Parasite" collection in which that bomber jacket was seen. The conceptual thought put behind each garment was to serve a very particular and highly practical function.

The detailing, the absurd number of pockets in this case, was taken extreme with the concept of functionality.

Some of the less extreme pieces of GN are showed down below. 

   Phenomenon by Takeshi Osumi had a chokehold with their multipocket bomber jacket that we saw on almost every rapper such as A$ap Rocky. They really used the pockets as a pattern, being a perfect example of the script's subject. Their take on it is clearly inspired by the GN bomber jacket. They just made it less extravagant and added some zips. 

    It flows by nature that Raf Simons has also used that "pattern" on one of his collection, in that case, S/S 2003. His take is very similar to GN's. Creating some very practical garments, specially in the early years of his career. He just added some pockets as seen on the leather vest on the right but the bomber jacket on the left is a bit more interesting. The material of it is very "parachute" -y and the pockets are more loose. Giving it a more of an effortless rushy vibe instead of a well cut and very defined with clear pockets. 

   Viktor & Rolf's 2002 collection also has a take on the multipocket. It is clearly different than the other takes since it is on a shirt and not on a practical garment. The take, here, is to give depth and interest to the piece and not make it functional.

Other exemples are easy to see in the galerie. Takes on the topic from Helmut Lang, M+F G , Gamme Bleue Moncler, etc... are figuring. 

bottom of page